Anticlockwise from Tusheti
“‘These scars here are from where they had to cut open his throat after he ate some poisonous wild mushrooms’, said Guiliana, pointing to the scars at the base of her husband’s throat…’And this is where he was attacked by bears,’ she said, pointing to other deep, ugly scars on his calf.”
If you’re a fan of big mountains, blue skies and long tracks, Georgia will almost certainly be on your list of places to explore on two wheels.
But there’s so much more to the country than just that. In summer 2022, I spent 2 mths exploring its backcountry by motorbike, at a time of huge change for this small country that finds itself at the heart of international geopolitics.
The unpronounceable town of Yeghegnadzor
“‘How much further?!’, the Policeman From Vayk was yelling at me (in Armenian), for the third time in a row in less than a minute. He certainly seemed to be getting rather animated.
“It was clear from the moment we’d met back in the hospital a couple of hours earlier that he was pissed off with me. But now he was REALLY pissed off at me.”
In June & early July 2022, I spent 4 weeks exploring the back country of Armenia, a land of monasteries, ruins & mountains that’s at the crossroads of geopolitics between Russia, Azerbaijan & Iran.
And in the process, found myself thrust into the centre of local police bureaucracy.
The road to Stepantsminda
‘“We wait, we drink vodka, we party, we drink coffee, we wait” said another Russian trucker some time later, who spoke some English, temporarily freeing me from the embarrassment of Google Translate’s ever-dodgy transliteration. “It has been 21 days”.’
The Georgian Military Highway, striking 200km north from the Georgian capital Tbilsi to the Russian border deep in the Caucasus mountains, has long been famed for its epic scenery.
But from the shepherds working the surrounding valleys, to the villages clinging to the mountainsides, there’s much more to the road and the surrounding areas than just that.
As part of a five month summer 2022 trip to Georgia and Armenia, in June I set out, in saddle and with camera in hand, to capture just that.
The Rumble in The Jungle
A story of what happens when a group of bikers who don’t know each other meet for a curry one autumn evening in Cusco, Peru, to ride through the mountainous jungle on the west fringes of the Amazon, via Macchu Pichu and territory that was once infamously ruled by the Shining Path guerillas.
The road to Sost
The September 2015 crash that threw my route to ride from London to Sydney into disarray, soon gave way to the amazing opportunity to ride the Karakorum Highway from Kashgar in Xinjiang, China, to Islamabad, Pakistan, during the Central Asian winter in November 2015. It was an adventure in itself. Read on here to see the people and the places I captured on the way.
40,000 miles from London to Sydney
In June 2015 I set out on the road for an adventure of a lifetime – riding solo, overland from London to Sydney by motorbike, capturing my trip in photos and regular blog updates on that way.